Monday, December 17, 2012

Friendly Strangers- Udaipur

Lina the Autistic Caregiver

    One fine day I was at the Lake Shore Restaurant/Hotel enjoying the view and a coffee when Jamail came in. He told me that he met another Canadian. I was very surprised as I hadn’t met many Canadians in my travels thus far, mostly Europeans, Australians, and New Zealanders. Jamail said that he told this lady, apparently around my age, all about me. Jamail also said that she was going to be coming to the Lake Shore Restaurant that evening so I should come and meet her.
    Later that evening I had completely forgotten about this other Canadian in Udaipur, but found myself heading to the Lake Shore restaurant anyways. When I got there I saw a North American woman sitting at one of the tables looking out to the water. The second I saw her I remembered what Jamail had told me and went over to introduce myself.
    From Toronto Lina had completed her Masters and had been traveling for the past five months, leaving six months for her total trip. She had started in in Europe going to Lithuania, Greece, Turkey. Then to Tanzania and Ghana for a few months. She had just arrived in India from the Ana Purna trek in Nepal. Quite the route! We spoke about care-giving, L’Arche, and her work with Autistic children.
    Lina is a vegan so I took her to Millets of Mewar, my local haunt as they have vegan options. We both discussed our shared love of Fresh, an amazing vegan/vegetarian restaurant in Toronto.
    Unfortunately Lina was in Udaipur for only a few days, but long enough to share some moments together, as well as some good meals, and great conversation. Us Canadian girls have to stick together!!

Jamail- Tour Guide Extraordinaire

    I met Jamail when I first arrived in Udaipur. I approached a group of men asking about a rikshaw. Jamail was the first to step up to the plate. I had planned on going to the Mewar Inn in Udaipur. I had no idea where this was. As we drove Jamail made polite conversation and asked where I was from. After I responded Canada he passed me a leather bound notebook filled with sentiments, thank-you’s, and recommendations from tourists. I read the ones from other Canadians and Americans, and a couple in Spanish. After reading many pages Jamail stopped the rikshaw and told me that the Mewar Inn was far from the centre of town and it would be much more difficult to meet other tourists, let alone get into town regularly. He asked if I wanted to see the property he owned, and consider staying there instead. This was my first introduction to my dear Jamail.
    Jamail has been working since he was fourteen or fifteen years old. He started as a rikshaw driver. He had a very unique experience in his early life. One evening he was across from the train station when he saw a young white female waiting outside the train station in the very very early hours of the morning. At the time the Mafia had shut down all rikshaw driving in the late evening and early morning hours. Probably so no one would find out what they were up to. Jamail saw this young woman and knew she needed help, or more specifically a ride to a hotel. He got into his rikshaw and started to drive. He was immediately pulled over by the police. He said he was just going to get gas for the rikshaw. He instead picked up this young, British woman and asked her where she wanted to go. He dropped her at a hotel so she was safe for the night.
    The next day the young British woman asked the hotel staff to find the same rikshaw driver who have kept her safe the evening before, and ask him to come to the hotel to take her around for sight-seeing. The hotel staff had no idea it was Jamail that had dropped her off and tried to convince the lady to hire someone else. But she was adamant that it be Jamail. It took some time but the hotel located Jamail and told him to come take the British woman around for sight-seeing.
    The young lady was from a very wealthy family in England. She had come to India for however long she wanted, with a very large budget. Day after day Jamail would take her to the different sights in and around Udaipur. They got to know each other very well. Over time the woman fell for Jamail, and he for her. Even though she lived in England she would fly back and forth to India on a regular basis for them to be together. Eventually she wanted to marry Jamail but he refused her. His sense of responsibility to his family was too great to leave them all and go to England. Not to mention the differences of wealth, class, and the language which, Jamail was slowly learning. They broke off their relationship but she bought him his own rikshaw. The British woman made him promise that he would only accept Western tourists as customers. She knew that was the only way for him to make good money in India. He held true to his word and serviced only tourists since that young age.
    In India most rikshaw drivers do not own their own rikshaws; they rent them on a daily basis. In the course of a day they need to make enough money to 1)pay the rental fee for the rikshaw, 2) pay for the gas used during the day and 3) enough to support themselves and their families. For Jamail, owning his own riskhaw gave him a huge advantage that most other drivers do not have, or will never get.
    I thought this story was absolutely fascinating. I further thought that the slightest coincidences and occurrences in our lives can dictate so much. If Jamail had never picked up this woman and had that experience he probably would not be in the position he is in today. Jamail does incredibly well for him and his family. He not only owns a rikshaw, but a motorbike, and a car, as well as his own home. He is part owner in the hotel and restaurant I would frequent. All this from a chance encounter with a British woman and being a tourist guide in the beautiful city of Udaipur.


Milking Molly 30’s encouragement ;)


    Molly was staying at the Aravali Guest house same as me. She was waiting for Accram one morning when I went to milk the cows. He had invited her to come see the cows as well. We really only chatted that morning. But what was so memorable was her encouragement. I had mentioned that I wanted to go back to school for acupuncture, but was feeling disappointed that I was beginning this schooling and career so late. She told me that it was the perfect age to do this type of work as I already have life experience. She said that not as many people would want to go see a practitioner who was barely out of high-school; they wouldn’t feel as comfortable and confident in their skills, practice, or ability.    I thought about it and realised she was right. I was very grateful to her for this new perspective and outlook on acupuncture school!

Accram at Arravli

    Accram is the manager of the Arravli Guest House I stayed at in Udaipur. His family owns the hotel as well as the Lake Shore Restaurant/ Hotel and a new hotel they will be opening up in a year or two. Accram is my age, or just about. One day I mentioned the date and he said it was close to his birthday. So I asked when his birthday was and he told me it was within the next couple of weeks, and that he was born in 82’. Shortly thereafter he said that he was actually born in December of 83’ but he had given the birth date from 83’ so he could start school with the rest of his peers and not be put in the grade lower than him. So Accram is around my age, I think.
    A very nice man indeed. I mentioned that I loved ice cream and instead of me going out in search of it everyday Accram bought a container of ice cream and kept it in the freezer for whenever I had a craving. He is also the man who taught me how to milk the cows, and who would laugh and laugh at me as I would make all sorts of funny faces trying to figure out the proper way to milk a cow. Ha ha ha!
    Because Accram was the manager of the hotel he was bound to the building, so we would often sit on the rooftop and chat. I soon learned that Accram loved his gossip as he would give me running commentaries on all the hotel guests. Ha ha ha ha. When you are a tourist you are always being watched. Nothing escapes the locals as their eyes are always on you!
    Accram used to swim competitively at the national level in India. In his early twenties he suffered a back injury and wasn’t able to swim after that. Accram always struck me as a modest and somewhat reserved man. He was not like the other Indian shop keepers who would constantly leer, holler, and disturb me everyday. He was respectful and polite and I appreciated that. This is probably why we became good friends. That being said, when he would talk about his youth and the years he swam it seemed that he was a bit of a bad ass. Apparently he was even thrown into jail one night for something illegal. I think it was probably pretty harmless; trespassing, or vandalism. Accram, being a Muslim, did not drink, or take drugs, he had never even smoked a cigarette. But anytime he would go back to those memories of swimming, and his friends he would giggle and giggle. Obviously some very good memories there.
    Accram was great and I really appreciated being treated like a human being, not just another tourist, and not just another Westerner. I was very thankful for this and felt taken care of by him. Kind of like one of the family. Whatever I needed he would get, like the ice cream. Or if I ever needed help he was there. One day I went to retrieve my camera so I could take pictures of the new hotel they are building, when I went to my room I searched and searched and I could not find my camera. Having a panic attack I realised I probably left it at the restaurant from the night before. Before I knew it I was on Accram’s motorbike and we were at the restaurant from the night before. Luckily my camera was there, another reason to make friends with restaurant and hotel owners, and to get a favourite place that you go to often! Accram drove me back and I was able to take pics of the new hotel. All in all I found a good buddy in Accram and was thankful to have someone looking out for me in this big, new, and amazing country. Thanks Accram!!
   

1 comment:

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